Lynn Sheppard - Expat in Essaouira, Morocco

Lynn Sheppard is a 41-year-old freelance writer, travel advisor and non-profit support worker based in the coastal city of Essaouira, Morocco. Originally from Edinburgh, Scotland, she relocated to Morocco to set up a business after receiving a redundancy package from her employer in 2012.  She also wanted to spend more time with her partner, who is her husband now. “I found the people incredibly hospitable, the architecture and crafts inspiring and the colours (the blue skies, sunsets in the Sahara, the spices and hand-woven rugs) dazzling,” she said. Presently, she has been living in Morocco for 2.5 years.

 

Mrs. Sheppard’s most difficult experience while living in her host country had much to do with the lack of entertainment and friends when she first moved. “When we are adjusting and going through culture shock, it places an incredible strain on your relationship if you don't have your usual support network and distractions around you to help you take time out to relax,” she explained, adding that she received support from her partner and his family.

She also noted that obtaining formalities to live and work in Morocco can take a while. “Morocco has high unemployment and so in order for non-nationals to work legally there, it is necessary either to set up a company (relatively straightforward) or for an employer to prove that there is no-one in the local labour market who could fulfil the role,” she said, noting that the process can be lengthy, but multinationals and specialist agencies are used to it.

 

It is common for expatriates to undergo some form of culture shock when living overseas, and having a support system can do a great job of helping expats adjust to their new surroundings. Expats looking for such a support system can find it by joining clubs and associations where they can meet people who share similar experiences in their host country. Another cause that expats are often concerned about involves handling formalities and paperwork, which can take a long time to process. Getting assistance when it comes to obtaining the right documents can help expats save time and money, so obtaining professional immigration services is something that expatriates may want to consider when moving overseas. 

 

Find out more about Lynn Sheppard’s experiences in Morocco in her full interview below. 

 

Q: Where are you originally from?

A:  Edinburgh, Scotland, UK

 

Q: What made you move out of your home country?

A: I have lived in many countries around the world, including Belgium, Germany, Japan and the UK. In 2012, I was able to take a redundancy package from my employer and decided to try out living in Morocco and setting up a business there. I also wanted to spend more time with my partner, who was based in Essaouira, on Morocco's Atlantic Coast. We are now married, so it was worth taking the plunge!

 

Q: Where are you living now?

A: Essaouira, Morocco

 

Q: How did you come to choose this new country of residence?

A:  I first visited Morocco in 2001. I found the people incredibly hospitable, the architecture and crafts inspiring and the colours (the blue skies, sunsets in the Sahara, the spices and hand-woven rugs) dazzling.  I stayed in a riad (Moroccan townhouse) in Essaouira over the new year into 2002 and there began my love affair with Essaouira.  Regrettably, my next visit to Morocco wasn’t until 2009 and I didn’t come back to Essaouira until 2011.  However, true love never dies and in 2012, after 13 years working as a civil servant for the Scottish Government, the UK’s Foreign and Commonwealth Office and the European Commission, I moved to Morocco.

 

Q: How long have you been living in your host country?

A: 2.5 years

 

Q: What has been the most difficult experience you've had when you were new in?

A:  The hardest part of living and working in small town Morocco was the lack of entertainment or friends when I first moved there and started working. When we are adjusting and going through culture shock, it places an incredible strain on your relationship if you don't have your usual support network and distractions around you to help you take time out to relax. Fortunately, I soon made firm friends and got a lot of support from my partner and his family.

 

Q:  Would you say that formalities like getting visas or work permits and international health insurance was particularly difficult in your host country? What was your experience with these?

A: Tourist visas are generally easy to get and to renew in Morocco but do not allow foreigners to work. Morocco has high unemployment and so in order for non-nationals to work legally there, it is necessary either to set up a company (relatively straightforward) or for an employer to prove that there is no-one in the local labour market who could fulfil the role. This can be a lengthy process, although multinationals and specialist agencies are used to it. International health insurance is expensive and in smaller Moroccan towns healthcare is not of the standard Western expats will be accustomed to, although large private clinics in major cities are very modern.

 

Q:  Are you living alone or with your family?

A: I live with my Moroccan husband.

 

Q: Was it easy making friends and meeting people? Do you mainly socialize with other expats in Morocco? How did you manage to find a social circle in Morocco?

A:  The largest expat group in Morocco is the French. They are well-networked and have many structures (as well as a common language) to facilitate life in Morocco. I would say that my friends are 50/50 Moroccan and expat, thanks to my husband and his family. My expat friends are Belgian, Australian, Polish, Italian, Spanish, German, British and French. There are many expat groups on Facebook and to facilitate networking, some friends and I created one for Essaouira. We use it to share information, seek advice and organise events and get-togethers. In many parts of Morocco, you really have to create your own fun!

 

Q: What are the best things to do in the area? Anything to recommend to future expats?

A: Essaouira is a small coastal town (pop. 70,000) with a fishing port and agricultural hinterland. The big attractions are the laid-back lifestyle, the low cost of living, the market-fresh daily produce, the easy-breezy climate and the welcoming, hospitable nature of local Moroccans. If you enjoy the European Mediterranean slow food and café culture, Morocco’s Atlantic coast is cheaper, just as warm but more rugged and with so much to explore! Easyjet will begin a direct flight from London in May 2015, so it is sure to attract more British tourists and expats.

Q:  How does the cost of living in Morocco compared to your home?

A: Up to 10 times cheaper!

a/ how much is a cup of coffee? 10dh (90p/ US$1.12)

b/ how much is a meal in an inexpensive restaurant? 50dh (£3.50/US$5.50)

c/ how much is a meal in an expensive restaurant? 250 dh (£18/£28)

d/ how much is a bottle of wine? (£5/US$7.80) How about a pack of cigarettes? Around 35 dh (£2.50? US$ 4) for an international brand and as little as a third of that for a local brand.

 

Q:  How do you find the local culture and people in your host country?

A: Moroccans are generous people and are always happy to share their time, food and ideas with visitors. This is particularly true in rural areas where there is little contact with foreigners. Moroccans derive a sense of pride and happiness from helping out travellers and those in need of assistance, even when they may have little to give.

 

Morocco is a developing country, and the Moroccans you meet will be aware of the vast wealth gap between you and them, even if you do not perceive it to be so large. Especially in tourism centres, there are certain Moroccans who specifically seek out Western 'friends' for their own specific interests and sometime it is difficult to tell these apart from the majority of generous, hospitable and selfless Moroccans.  Pack your common sense in your baggage! Moroccans are incredibly tolerant. Although this is a majority Muslim country, other cultures and religions are largely accepted.

 

Q:  Do you miss home and family sometimes?

A:  Of course, that's only natural, especially during holiday periods or big family events. However, Morocco is close to the UK and it's relatively easy to get home a few times a year.

 

Q: How do you cope with homesickness?

A: I have found living in Morocco, that even though I have a residence permit (carte de séjour), so I am not obliged to leave every 3 months to renew my visa, it is nonetheless a good idea to travel every 3 months or so. Travelling around Morocco reminds me why I love this country when the day-to-day in Essaouira is getting me down; travelling home or to Europe refreshes my relationships, ideas and palate!

 

Q:  Do you have plans to move to a different country or back home in the future?

A: In future, we hope to shake-up the balance of our lives to spend more time in the UK in future. Our aim is to have one foot in Edinburgh, Scotland and one in Essaouira, Morocco, spending time in each through the year. 

 

Q:  What has been the hardest aspect to your expat experience so far?

A: Morocco and Moroccans are very easy-going. It can play havoc with your goals and schedule. It is sometimes difficult to achieve a balance between staying true to oneself, one's goals and ambitions and 'going with the flow'. Also, once you scratch beneath the surface, once you really live in Morocco, you gain a greater understanding of the barriers to and effort required for this country to truly develop. Some people manage to turn a blind eye to this. I have found it quite uncomfortable and for that reason have given my time to local non-profits to try and improve the situation. This is a crowd-funding campaign that I am currently running for the education of disadvantaged kids in Essaouira: http://www.gofundme.com/essaouiraschoolkit

Q:  What tips can you give other expats living in Morocco?

A: Morocco is a great place to come on holiday or for an extended stay to 'get away from it all.' However, it is a developing country and what you find charming as an un-invested tourist may become irritating when you actually live here. I always recommend that people spend a longer period living in their chosen town or city to see if they really enjoy the lifestyle before moving permanently. And if you are thinking to set up a business in Morocco, consider carefully the risks and opportunities and research your market very carefully.

 

Q: Do you have favourite websites or blogs about Morocco?

A: I have written an e-guide to Essaouira, The Best of Essaouira, and blogs at maroc-o-phile.com for travel industry clients. Other reccommended sites as follow: